I have used regular misty fuse. Very light in feel. Its not “backed” like heatn bond or wonder under.
There are three misty fuse products – white color, black color and the new “heirloom quality” type. Can’t think of the name! Anyway the heirloom is the product that carries the long term warrenty.
I took a class from Robbi Eklow a few years ago – she uses wonder under. I remember her discussing a study done on WU and the life span of quilts done that way (she does raw edge with tons of quilting on it). Her statement was that method is not expected to last a hundred years – it will shatter at some point even with all the quilting. So the new Misty Fuse product has a couple things going for it – 1) better feel that the heat and bond (and yes I have used light – don’t like it much) and Wonder Under products out there and 2) chances of lasting way past our lifetimes so future generations can enjoy our work.
I have used this technique (following instructions in a mistyfuse advert in Oct/Nov Quilting Arts Magazine). It works really well. I used a 6B pencil to make sure the pencil line would transfer – but you could probably use a harder pencil (especially if transfering to a light fabric). I used Pellon Wonder-under. I find it easy to stitch through, and it doesnt make the fabric too stiff. Not sure about the UV stability though.
Hi, Sharon: I have used MistyFuse and I quite like it. It is a very fine web, and changes the hand of the fabric very little. It can also be fused at a lower heat setting, so is ideal for fusing synthetics as well as cotton quilt fabric. I’m in Canada, though, and can’t help you with an Australian source. I must say I am skeptical of the studies that have been done on these types of adhesives. There has been some criticism of the Nebraska study on the basis that applying heat does not truly simulate the effects of time. I hope you are successful in finding a local source for MistyFuse, I think you will like it.
I’ve just recently started using Misty Fuse and quite like it. I haven’t done anything other than play with it at this point – but I do find it is a heck of a lot lighter than heatnbond (lite). I’ve use both hand and machine stitching with it. There are couple of places that you can get it on the web – and they have shipped to me (Canada).
Cheers – I do so enjoy your blog!
I stumbled onto some Mistyfuse in my local quilt shop after reading about it in the Quilting Arts magazine. It is very lightweight and easy to hand embroider through. I used it for a contemporary embroidery class that I took and liked it very much. I found it in both black and white. I hope you’ll be able to try it.
Hi Sharon – I have got some of the MF is both black and white – I ordered direct from the manufacturer in US, and they threw in a pack of the UV stable stuff. It is very fine and soft and doesn’t alter the hand the way the Heat ‘n Bond does. Unlike most of the other fusibles, it does NOT come with backing paper. Dale Rollerson at the Thread Studio carries it in Oz – not sure who else. As for the UV one – not sure of the logic there – even if it is UV stable, the fabric that it is bonded too isn’t, so if you expose your finished piece to UV, what will happen – the fabric will fade/rot away, but the sticky stuff will be left??
MistyFuse is amazing. It barely changes the hand of the fabric at all, and all but disappears when you use it with sheers, too. It’s much, much lighter than any of the other fusibles — it’s like cobwebs, really, but holds permanently.
I’m in the US, so don’t know where you could get it down under, but I know many online places carry it.
Howdy from Texas. I have been using Misty Fuse since the 2006 quilt market in Houston after attending a mini workshop. I use the white and the black. I have not used the heirloom yet.
About durability – I did a jacket using Misty Fuse and it has been washed and worn quite a bit. I have had minimal problems with the raw edges unraveling and most of that would be due to me not catching the raw edges with stitches in a couple of places.
I had a friend who did a similar jacket with Steam a Seam 2 Light. Her jacket has not held up to repeated washing like mine has. Also her jacket is much stiffer than mine.
The Misty Fuse did not change the hand of the fabric and was easy to work with.
I have also used the product in wallhangings and found it to be fine. I did have some problems with very small pieces that I finally went to a Steam a Seam product.
sharon, I have used Misty also, It is really wonderful hand, Joggles handles it, have even experimented with dying a bit and then placing bits on fabric, but as a decoration, if you hold a steam iron a few inches above it will curl and scrunch into wonder shapes, it turns into an part of the fabric, sort of like cheese cloth look Rene
Hi All MistyFuse folks got back to me they do ship internationally thanks heaps for the comments I will have to try this as I have big project in mind but the idea of Heat n Bond was putting me off. So stay tuned for my opinion on the stuff
Sharon I normally use vliesofix which is readily available in Australis. As Hilary said, Dale of the Thread Studio carries it and I have tried some I got from her, not quite as solid as the vliesofix but then I paint that so I am not sure that I would bother with misty fuse in that case.Much better if you are using sheers and things like that.
Hi, Sharon – I am a big fan of Mistyfuse (and not just because Iris Karp of Attached, Inc. is donating 20% of all Mistyfuse sold in December from http://www.mistyfuse.com to the American Cancer Society through my Fiberart For A Cause.).
I used it exclusively in my Boundary Waters series and REALLY liked it for fusing photos printed on silk organza to my artwork. Practically transparent and very soft.
Have used Misty Fuse and Steam a Seam Lite and much prefer the misty fuse even tho’ you need to use parchment or freezer paper with it. Only thing I can add to the above comments is I have also used it to bond angelina, decorative papers and tea bags to fabric post cards with great success.
sharon i never used misty fuse…but i now have some …i cant wrap my brain around how to use it …with what i want to do
i took a picture from a coloring book enlarged it and now want to put it to fabric how do i transpose the picture parts to the fabric so i can cut it out and press it down to the back ground fabric
i hope i made my self clear thanking you in advance frances
it is not difficult
Get some baking paper ( ie the paper you line trays with when peopl emake biscuits in Australia we use Glad Bake)
lay the paper down
lay some misty fuse down on it
lay fabric on top of that
then when you lift you have a sandwich of paper misty fuse and fabric
cut fabric to shape
peel of paper
place fabric misty fuse side down on fabric you want to fuse to
thank you so very much for your quick response..how do i get the tracing on to the paper or fabric so that i can cut
i guess what i want to say is how do i transfer the picture to the fabric or the paper or the misty fuse so i can cut
This is much past your post of 12/07, but after finding your question in a Google search of Misty Fuse, I must write.
I absolutely love the stuff. The most important thing to me is that the amount of heat by ironing does not seem to alter the adhesion of Misty Fuse. I have tried Heat n Bond and Stitch Witchery and others and was quite disappointed to find that if some of them are ironed too long, they release from the foundation fabric, leaving bubbles and large gaps where the web releases. Misty Fuse stays put, even with over heating a bit.
Misty Fuse is great, even for hand quilting. Ever so slight difference in thickness.
Hi Sharon! I was just visiting and saw the question about transferring the coloring book design onto fabric for cutting out and I thought I should mention yet another method (there are several ways to do it), one that I call “Working Forward.” Simply trace the design right-reading (hence working forward) onto the baking parchment with a regular #2 pencil. Place the Mistyfuse on top of the drawing and then the fabric on top of that. Now iron with a hot iron and some pressure. Iron also from the paper side for a moment, too. Now peel the fabric off the paper and you’ll see that the pencil line is now also on the back of the fabric, perfectly reversed, ready to cut along. For dark fabrics white or light colored pencils from the art supply store work great. Since it is the spidery web of the Mistyfuse that is lifting the pencil line, it will look almost dotted although it usually is enough detail to do the cutting easily. Prefusing allows the fuse to spread out across the fabric first and will maybe pick up a little more detail for fussier details. Now once cutout, the shape is ready to just place and iron down permanently.
Thank you Sharon for keeping this blog up! So many people have told me over this past year that they happened upon it and relied on it for information and confirmation about Mistyfuse before going out and buying it.